New-Zealand
 Castel Hill
 Wanaka et Queenstown (Jardines)
 Paynes Ford
 Elephant Rock - Duntroon
 Dunedin (Long Beach)
 Wharepapa-South
 Whanganui Bay
Australia
Malaysia
Thailand

New-Zealand

New Zealand is divided in two distinctive islands; North-Island and the South-Island. The South-Island is recognized for outdoor activities specially the rock climbing. You will be able to climb at Castel Hill (B), Elephant rock (B), Paynes Ford (S), Wanaka (S), Garden (B) and Dunedin (T,B). The North-Island is a lot more populated and developed, but you will be able to climb at: Wharepapa-South (S) and Whaguyi (T,S).

(B = Block), (S = Sport), (T = Traditional)

South-Island

Castel Hill

Castel Hill is well reputed in the world for the quality and the infinite quantity of boulders problems that you will find there. The spectacular rocky formations are now became a New Zealand heritage, because a few hundreds of years ago, the Maoris have lived in the cave. The site is divided in four sectors that offer more than 10 000 problems dispatch in those immense labyrinths of block. Some blocks can reach more than 30 meters. Several of them contain sports routes but now, it’s illegal to add new protections. Most of the roads are difficult and some are only protected by carrots (a screw without tablet).

The landscape is surrounding by magnificent mountain. The only inconvenience is than the site is away far from any big center and is located between 2 pass. It is necessary to plan some food and a site of camping. There is one offered at 3 or 4 km, close to the village in direction of the West-Coast. Pay attention to the Kea (parrots of mountain). They are indeed very pretty, but they like to destroy everything that shines and everything that is in rubber. Several peoples reported damages made to their cars, to their tent and even sometimes they tackle the eyes!!!

This site is a must to see. It is easy to spend several days, because the possibilities are infinite. Some really popular problems are now a lot more difficult because the rock became polishes due of the intensive circulation.

Wanaka, Queenstown and Jardines

This mountainous region offers a few good sites of climbing. The rock in those spot is the schism. The best site is at 50 km in the west of Queenstown. This region is situated in a national park, so you will have to go back to the town. The city of Queenstown possesses some cliffs, but not that interesting except the view of the town and the lake.

The best concentration of route it’s finds at 25 km of Wanaka. This place is situated close to the Mount Aspiring. The region is divided in 4 or 5 major’s sites; the majority among them is accessible from the road. A camping exists at 8 km before the cliff, otherwise you must return toward the city. The last option is to sleep close to one of the cliff. Be aware with this option, because the farmers don't like the visitors at all, and can hunt you! Find information before opting for it, because only one place tolerated camping.

The main advantage of the site is the concentration of routes and that several sites, offer access to the cliff direct from the parking. The majority of the routes are equipped, but some are still in traditional. If you prefer to climb bolder, turn our interest toward Jardines, close to Queenstown.

Payne’s Ford

This paradisiacal site is situated on the Gold Cost, very near of Takaka. The ambiance is there indeed brilliant. All the climbers go sleep in a camping named Hang Dog. The camping costs 5 $ and it’s organized by a climber. The route are at less than 5 min walk from the camping site. The climbing is there mainly in sport, the type of rock is limestone. You will find there nice hold, some featuring, special rounded holds.

This site offers different regrouping of routes. The main is situates to 3 km of Takaka and the second is situated in border of the sea and the road. This last is composed of several "cliff s".

All around the site, you will find nice spot to refresh yourself. First, there is the beach you can refresh yourself some kilometer away from the city or you can have a bath or dive in the icy water along the cliff in the river. Otherwise, when is very a hot days, go and do some water boldering in a cave above the river!! Really brilliant!!

Elephant Rock - Duntroon

This site is very spectacular. It offers rocky formations similar to the one of Castel Hill. These therefore a perfect place for boldering. The site is situated on a farmer's land. It is necessary to respect the environment and the impossibility to sleep on the site. Lately, Wald Disney used the site to shoot are last successes, Narnia. The type of rock is the Limestone.

Dunedin (Long beach)

In the surrounding of Dunedin, you will find several possibilities of climbing. The different sites offer cliff of volcanic rock, but the majority of the routes is not equipped. However, the site of Long Beach is a very interesting place for one day, due of is famous cave in which you can do boldering. The site is situated on a beach, what offers a soil therefore really ideal for this. The cave is made a little bit like it would be in a climbing gym. Several problems exist according to your level and soil is sand so no needs for a crash pad.

North-Island

Wharepapa-South

Is a site situated close to Hamilton. The climbing is only in sport, it is situate in a beautiful valley. The cliffs are made of volcanic rocks (completely different from Long Beach) fully cover by pockets. Several regrouping of cliffs exists and each offers different types of routes. For example, you can find the towers, tunnels, slabs and overhang. You will find a camping who offers the possibility to spend the night. This last is situated in the backyard of a school. The harvested money is give to the school, I believe it costs about 4 $ per night. The climbing sites are situated on the lands of the farmers, it is necessary to follow the indications therefore and to respect the demands of these last.

Whanganui Bay

It’s located in border of the Lake Taupo. The climbing is there mainly in traditional, but some sport routes exist. I didn't have the chance to climb there, but the local climbers affirmed that this site is the most beautiful of New Zealand, of at the less in the North-Island.