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Story book of the journey
Tibet Degin - Lhasa : February 6 to March 3, 2007 Lhasa - Katmanou : March 4 to 26, 2007
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Tibet
Degin - Lhasa : February 6 to March 3, 2007
It took us around more than 3 weeks to cross Tibet to get to Lhasa. During this adventure, we lived a whole range of emotions. The Yunnan Highway, the road to enter to Tibet, was very difficult. We had more than 500 km of gravels and the road passed constantly from 2000 to 5000 meters of altitude. We also had to pass through 8 Pass to reach Lhassa. The days were relatively hot, but in evening, the temperature could often drop under the minus 20. On the other hand, we never get cold, very good sleeping bag. But now, I must pay attention to my left feet because I think I get frost bite.
Biking in altitude is not always easy. We often had to push the bicycles to reach the summit because the oxygen was rare and because we could quickly fell the fatigue. The pass was also often covering by snow that became quite icy whit the traffic and the heat of the sun that make it extremely slippery.
We did not have any problems with the PSB station. We passed Yanjing, Markam, Nyingchi and Bayi by night (How to cycling Yunnan to Lhassa). For the other cities, the police don’t seem to care about us. They only smile to us and wave hand at the passage. In the facts, we should have a permit but, the police don’t seem to want to get the trouble to control us.
On the road, we met many llamas who traveling to Jokang Temple in pilgrimage. It is very impressive. In sign of faith to the religion, these people browse hundreds of kilometers (often more then 500 or 700 km) to reach this famous temple in Lhassa. Every two meters, they have to pray and prostrate (flat on the ground) themselves to Buddha. Some llamas could do that for more than 7 months before they rich Jokang. On the way, people will give them donations (money or food). For our part, we try to help them by giving a few Yuan’s and a little bit of food when it’s possible.
People in Tibet (Tibetans) are of an incredible kindness. According to my readings in the passed, I was expecting than people would be a little distrustful facing the travelers. Not at all! They are always really happy to welcome us in there home to serve us the famous Yak butter tea and in some occasion they invite us to sleep. We have been invited in tree families to celebrate the Tibetan New Year. It is indeed funny! Often the whole village finishes in the house. Two tourists in the village, it’s quite rare. During these evenings, we had luck to taste many typical dishes (on cook or dry Yak meat, Tibetan bread, dzampa, Labou, alcohol of fermentation,). One time, they also give us two big bottles of beer, than we had to carry all the way to Lhasa. We promise to drink it in Lhassa to celebrate our arrived.
Before the last pass, we also spent the evening with nomads. They are incredible! They live with nothing at all and it is very cold at night at 4 300 meters of altitudes. They make me thing about the First Nation of America who live in a Tipi. I was under the shock to realize than they sleep 4 in a really small bed (dad, mom, 2 brothers). It should be warmer!!!
We finally arrived on March 2 around 18:00 hrs after 111 km. We are really happy to be here and we should take couple of day of rest to recover well. After, we should keep going on the friendship highway to get to Nepal and India.
Lhasa - Katmanou : March 4 to 26, 2007
Our departure from Lhasa was a relief. The city had nothing special, no life and we began to turn around. The ambiance was extremely different from the countryside and everybody seems a little lost. I believe that Lhasa was a big disappointment. We ride the 750 km to reach the border of Nepal. The road was relatively easy; except for the mad cold wind that blowing extremely strong in the afternoon. Several time, we had to push the bike. Compared to the East side of Tibet, the landscape of the Friendship Highway is so monotonous. This section of the country is only an immense desert. It is nice, but after a while, it’s good to see something else. People don't have anything to heat the house. They must burn the Yak dump; they dry it for the fire!!! It is very funny. People are not nice on the road. They constantly asked us for money and if we refused, the young children threw us some rocks. The parents didn't even say anything and they found us funny when we frustrated ourselves after the children. But, we lived two beautiful experiences with family that welcomed us for the night. The first meeting, we were welcomed in shepherd's family. Incredible, these people lived in the rocks, in the mountain!
The crossing of the Himalayan was a lot more stressful than what we could have imagined. The road was catastrophic, because we were during the spring and the snow was melting and they had no asphalt. We pass some old avalanches on the road and the risk to get one was present because we were passing to the foot of the glaciers. To arrived at the border was a relief after 1 day of going down (5 200 meters to 2700 meters).
Wow, Nepal! After 1 month and half of cold weather, we could finally get in short and in sandal. In one day, we passed from winter to tropical summer. The sensation was indescribable. The green, what pretty color. I also remember the fresh perfume of the air. That smelled fresh, I could feel the nature with these thousands perfumes. We also see a big change on the culture. It is a beginning of the Indus culture (color, perfume, temples...)
On the road, we crossed another cyclist, Paul, from Belgium. We made a few Km together, but after some minutes, I (Ge) just completely lost them!!! Yes, yes, lost. When I get the village, I should have pass on the rung way of a bus and the two boys didn't see me. Than now, I was in front of them. Long history, my bicycle broke, I don't see Ben and Paul anymore so I didn’t have the chose, I gone a do hitchhiking to the capital. Of course in Katmandu, I run in internet and I send a message to Benoît to reassure him and to inform him than I found a hotel for the night. He receives my message in evening, but you can be sure than this night, both were worry for the other one.
We like Katmandu (Tamel). There is a great atmosphere and the Nepalese are just so nice. It is striking! We brought the bicycles at the bike shop because they are not top shape. It’s maybe our last chance to fix them before getting to Europe. We also did a little bit of shopping because we did not have anymore any summer clothes and here, it’s quite cheap. We are presently waiting for our Indian visa and then, we take the road toward Pokhara. We should be in India in two weeks.
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